September selection by glass

I am sitting here in my office. The sun, after yesterday’s gloomy weather, feels much brighter than usual, so while trying to concentrate on these wines and all I wish to say about them, instead, I am looking at the sunlight dancing in my living room. If I did not know it is just 19 degrees Celsius outside, I would think the summer is still in full bloom, yet the fall has taken over, although it is a warm one allowing plenty of room for all kinds of attires from skirts to shorts and even to fall jackets. And, yes, it allows room for wines, which are still one foot in summer and already one in fall.

I actually have no idea what I wish to say, looking at these bottles in front of me, standing on the table already for two weeks. All I know is that these empty bottles have a good reason to linger in my office for much longer than the others have had the chance to and ever will. Some even from the end of July — like Champagne Guiborat Prisme, which I had with my friend that one very warm summer evening, enjoying Lyon much quieter than it is now when I am writing this, almost in the middle of September. Yet, every time I look at the bottle, it feels like I had those glasses of champagne just yesterday; how powerful is the taste?

Yes, Champagne Guiborat Prisme Extra Brut is a very memorable champagne made from the grapes of Grand Cru vineyards by quite a young 5th-generation winemaker, Richard Fouquet (for someone in their forties, I do consider 36 to be young). This 100% Chardonnay champagne from sustainably managed vineyards in the Côte des Blancs, with fantastic plots on the terroirs of Cramant, Chouilly, and Mardeuil, is made with one idea in mind — to preserve the environment and show the true colours of terroir. He and his wife make miracles in their 3-hectare vineyards. A bottle one should never leave behind if it is available.

And, although there is no other drink in this world as champagne and a glass a day would not make me sad at all, there are, from time to time, some other sparkling wines that turn up that graciously and deserve that spotlight, too. One of those most certainly is this captivating yet simple étiquette with a man riding a bike made by Fabien Brutout. Produced in Noizay, in the Loire Valley, the cuvées are blended from different plots, all certified in organic farming. Made from Chenin blanc grape, it is created using the traditional method, without any chemical additives, and fermenting in a bottle with added yeast. Result? An expressive citrus wine with notes of honey, making it more round than one would expect. Dry, juicy, velvety is what I would like to describe this one.

Picked up in a wine shop on Île de Ré, solely chosen by the label, which is what I do when I do not know which of the wines to choose, this wine from Périgord is made by The Conti family at Château Tour des Gendres. A fairly simple yet surprising wine made from Sauvignon, Chenin, and Savagnin grapes, making it very mineral, fresh (to the soil), subtle, round, and powerful with lots of complexity and a beautiful yellow colour. Quince, lemon zest, and some sweet apple are some things you will notice when inhaling the wine.

But some time before picking up the previous wine, I stepped into the wine shop in Lyon asking for a red wine, not too natural, that this shop is known for selling. Expecting a friend who does not like wines to be too natural, I was promised that this would not be, so this bottle of Morgon 2022 by Jean Foillard came with me, waiting for its grand appearance for a few days. Stressed, I opened it, wondering if it would be to my liking and hers more importantly, and my God, was I surprised by the beauty of this wine. Silky. Round. Tender even. Full of fruit notes mingling with cherry and violet notes. Amazing in all of its forms.

And, last but not least, the legendary Eva Fricke wine, which is not from France but is so worth mentioning. Discovered thanks to sommelier Abbie Moulton, with whom I worked together on my last book. A discovery that most certainly will stay with me for life as all of the wines I have tried from them have made my heart bounce a tiny bit faster, and my palate turn much happier. Made from Riesling grapes, this Kiedrich Riesling 2022 from Rheingau is all you wish a Riesling would be. Full of aromas of honey, kumquats, orange zest, and flowers, and a body that rests lingering on your tongue and in your mouth for a long, long time.