saffron pistachio bread

In a book published 100 years ago, I found a recipe – traditional yellow bread. A staple among royalty then, yet something unimaginable for the middle and lower classes. I unrolled my sleeves, put on Elvis Presley’s Blue Christmas, and started the dough, first inhaling the magnificent scent of saffron, before marrying it with milk. Step by step, one ingredient mixed with the other, and resulted in a smooth dough that I rested in the warmth of the preheated kitchen. The green pistachios turned into powder to be mixed with sugar and butter and my favorite - orange blossom water. Three hours later the house smelled of sugar, butter, and pistachios, lingering in every room, calling everyone to the kitchen. We tore off a piece, and it was divine – the crunchy crust giving way to a moist and airy middle. 

1 g saffron
500 ml lukewarm milk
17 g dry yeast
100 g butter, melted
700- 800 g wheat flour
140 g golden caster sugar
1 small tonka bean, grated (or 1/2 vanilla pod seeds)
1/4 tsp sea salt

filling:
60 g butter, room temperature
65 g golden caster sugar
30 g pistachios, crushed
1/2 tsp orange blossom water
1/4 tsp cardamom powder
pinch of sea salt

Heat 250 ml of milk to 60°and add saffron. Leave to infuse for 20 – 30 minutes. Meanwhile, mix the rest of the milk with 1 tbsp sugar and yeast, leaving it for 15 minutes. 

Strain the saffron milk. Place saffron threads into a mortar and pestle and smash them to a puree and add to the strained milk. Pour the saffron milk and butter into the flour, tonka, salt, and sugar. First, add 700g of flour (leave the rest if needed later). Knead the dough to get a smooth and shiny texture – not too long and too strong. If you think more flour is needed, add 50g of flour. Place into a bowl, cover, and leave to double (1 – 1,5 h depending on the warmth of your room). 

While the dough is proofing, mix all of the filling ingredients. 

Grease a 30 x 10 cm loaf tin generously with butter. 

Roll the dough into a rectangle 30 x 30 cm. Spread the filling over, roll, and cut lengthways in half. Twist the halves together as if you were braiding. Place in the pan and tuck the ends in nicely if a bit longer than the pan. Cover with a kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place for 1 hour until puffy. 

Heat the oven to 210°and put the pan in the oven one level below the middle. Bake for 35 - 40 minutes until golden and caramelized. Take out of the oven and leave to rest until you can handle it, carefully, as the sugar around the edges will be sticky. If you are afraid that you won't get it out, use paper instead of buttering the pan. But the butter and dough make a beautiful crunchy crust. 

Recipe and pictures: Signe Meirane
Camera: Sony Alpha 7s
Tableware, kitchenware, linen and decorations: HM Home
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