Paris. Le Marais and its most treasured stops
I think Le Marais can be compared to New York – a place that never sleeps or never stops developing. It's the eight time I’ve walked the small streets there and stopped at Palais des Thes (to buy my selection of teas), Breizh (there's no other place to eat galettes and crepes like here, accompanied by a bowl of cider or coffee), Meert(the most traditional and oldest waffles), and so much more. On a hot summer day, there is nothing like a neatly rolled ball of ice cream at Une Glace à Paris. On cold days, I like to stand by the windows of Les Merveilleux de Fred watching the brioche buns come out of the oven, feeling the warmth inside of me later as I get one to enjoy.
Le Marais is a place to walk, to get lost in, to turn into unknown streets. I always like to take a walk along one of the most iconic streets Rue des Rosiers with its Jewish bakeries and restaurants (Chez Marianne is a place to stop) and patisserie from talented Yann Couvreur Pâtisserie, where kouign aman is pure heaven – croissant melts like snowy mountains in the sun and Paris-Brest is something you should share (but maybe better not).
Nor far from there, I always, if only for the pleasure of looking, go to Fleux (52 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie) to read a book or magazine at the Jardin de l’Hôtel Salé-Léonor-Fini and then walk to Jardin des Archive Nationales to enjoy a coffee at The Broken Arm. Criss-crossing Le Marais is like a labyrinth I do not want to get out of. It is one of the chicest and yet profound parts of Paris. It changes, yet not actually changing. The streets and houses look the same, only the details change. The old is preserved while the young arrive with ease. Tradition remains, and the new is praised. It is a mix of everything – Japanese, French, English, local, and foreign, leaving me to wonder how they still capture the essence of this place? I love Le Marais for its food, where the options to indulge are enough for months. It is the mood that leads one to choose between one or the other.
Jacques Genin – the finest chocolates and caramels in Paris.
La Chambre au Confitures – shopping for jams and preserves.
Palais des Thes – from simple every day to grand cru and limited-edition teas, accessories, and books. My favorite tea shop in Paris. And although there are many, this is their flagship shop, and it feels like that.
Chez Marianne – for delightful Jewish food. The place has been there forever, and I believe it will continue to be. Be prepared to line up.
Meert is one of the historical sweet shops in Paris. Chocolate, bonbons, pastries, caramels, and much more, but nothing is more special than their 1849 recipe, Lille Waffles. With Madagascar vanilla or pistachios orspeculoos cream – those always come home with me.
Breizh – the most famous and unique galettes (buckwheat pancakes) and crepes there are. The selection is grand; the taste even more so. Classic in Paris, and I love the classics. Galette with ham, egg, and cheese accompanied with cider is the combination I love to enjoy.
Gramme – cuisine Parisienne, with respect to seasonality, local produce, and quality. The menu is small and changes daily; the coffee is perfect and the service simply Parisian. Little cakes, bakes, salads, soups. One of the best pastrami burger sandwiches I have ever had (with sriracha mayonnaise, meat, and a delicious brioche bun).
La Plume du Marais – a small shop full of cards, stationery, gift ideas, and Parisian charm.
Pain de Sucre (Pâtisserie) – it is all about the most exquisite pastry here.
Fringe Coffee – there, while sitting by the window with my cappuccino and avocado toast, I felt true happiness to be in Paris — a place driven by good coffee, cardamom buns, and local yet straightforward food.
Wild & The Moon – all about vegan, raw, freshly squeezed, smooth, juiced, and healthy.
Loustic – right on the border of Le Marais, I still consider it a Le Marais cafe. A small, Nordic-inspired coffee place praised for serving good coffee and Nordic-inspired pastries.
Aux Merveilleux de Fred – meringues dusted with chocolate, speculoos, berries, sprinkles, and so much more. They are light as air and famous, as they should be. If not for the pleasure of trying them, just go there for the joy of the shop itself.
Jardin de Hôtel de Sully – I stood there regretting that I had not discovered it before. It is small. It is charming, romantic, and well hidden.
From a trip in year 2020