Dinner. Berlin
One of the must-visit restaurants for Michelin star hunters is the two-starred Reinstoff, masterminded by chef Daniel Achilles. Located in the historical Edison courtyards in Mitte, Reinstoff is a surprise in every sense – the location, the service, but mostly, of course, the dishes and the drinks. The chef works wonders with flavours and ingredients you may have never heard of, like sea kale, mu err dashi, kinzanji miso, and versions of dishes that had never even come close to occurring to me – buttermilk broth, potato strudel dough, Chinese artichoke with smoked oysters, quinoa ice cream, spinach and egg yolk foam, and more, and more, and more.
Reinstoff. Berlin
One of the must-visit restaurants for Michelin star hunters is the two-starred Reinstoff, masterminded by chef Daniel Achilles. Located in the historical Edison courtyards in Mitte, Reinstoff is a surprise in every sense – the location, the service, but mostly, of course, the dishes and the drinks. The chef works wonders with flavours and ingredients you may have never heard of, like sea kale, mu err dashi, kinzanji miso, and versions of dishes that had never even come close to occurring to me – buttermilk broth, potato strudel dough, Chinese artichoke with smoked oysters, quinoa ice cream, spinach and egg yolk foam, and more, and more, and more.
And the wine list. Matching the dishes you’ve ordered (if you so desire), it reveals estates, grapes, producers and combinations that are truly astounding. Start off your meal with a sparkling Riesling Brut Nature 2007, specially bottled for this restaurant, to then let the sommelier take you on a journey. Some names to bear in mind and try – the unfiltered Odinstal wine made from the Silvaner grape, the South African Mullineux 2012 from the Swartland region, Neuburger wine from Nikolaihof, the oldest winery in Austria, and two digestives that I’ll never forget – Dirker Haselnuss (the hazelnut aroma literally sweeps you off your feet) and the Berlin local elixir Pijökel 55, its recipe conceived in 1955. The latter two are drinks you’d do well to bring back home with you. Reinstoff is an adventure, as it behooves a Michelin restaurant.
Address: Schlegelstraße 26c, Berlin
www.reinstoff.eu
La Soupe Populaire. Berlin
You may get a bit teary-eyed when enjoying the same food that the chef of La Soupe Populaire served to Mr. Obama on his visit, but in this case it will only be because the dishes here are so good, not because they were served to Mr. Obama. Recipes that have inspired the chef are German classics – meatballs, potatoes, eggs, beetroot – which he goes on to dismantle entirely and then construct anew, still not losing that unique touch with German cuisine. The wonderfully soft egg, nestled with crisps among beetroot, potato mash and a creamy Hollandaise-type sauce is an adventure in itself. Same with the tender cod with warm pickles in ham sauce and tarragon purée, as well as the meatballs with capers, served with potato mash, wine and butter reduction and beetroot. But, as at all top-notch restaurants, it all starts with the bread, which is served with pickles, speck cream and spicy sausages. And it all ends with one of the most divine desserts I’ve recently had – honey, a light and airy vanilla foam, interspersed with apricot ice cream and topped with an almond biscuit, accompanied by a cute almond bee on the side. The regular menu here doesn’t change that often, but the other menu is inspired by the exhibitions on display in the art gallery.
La Soupe Populaire is located in a former beer brewery, but don’t be afraid when you’re there and looking for the entrance – behind the construction site and the little doors you’ll find another world that will make you feel a bit different than many other restaurants. You’ll see that people come here to experience the environment and the art as well, not just the food – all of those are great, so go with the adventure! A new face of German cuisine, art and feelings, all in one place.
Address: Prenzlauer Allee 242, Berlin
lasoupepopulaire.de/en
Flying with www.airbaltic.com
Photo Armands Meirans
