When in Venice
On the day I left Venice, I read a post on Instagram in which the author said that she had no idea that Venice was really just about water and houses. Yes, that is true. And as one of my friends said – the more you come, the more you fall in love, taking into consideration that the best time to go is somewhere between October and March, unless you like to walk being squeezed like herring in a barrel. Of course, I would love to enjoy Venice in the summer too, but in my world, I would be alone there with a few locals, my family, and friends. That will not happen – that’s for sure, so I will go there somewhere between the last days of summer and start of spring.
Venice, sadly for travelers, is a 99% tourist city. With a population of just 60 000 population, it serves 30 million people who arrive every year. And when you are there, you understand why – the city is like one big postcard. Wherever you go is a photo you want to keep. I think it is one of the most photographed cities I've ever been to, but it also has its negative sides: to find a cool place, you have to be a local, know a local, or be a search freak who just knows how to find local places. I was lucky – I know a person living there, and that was my chance to see a different Venice.
Venice dinner must. Nevodi. There are not many places I go back to when traveling from city to city, but Nevodi just knocked me off my feet. This is a gem in Venice – every bite of that cod or truffle ravioli is like bite of heaven and the fried frutti di mare Venetian style is something to enjoy with a glass of some of their fantastic white wine. And there is so much more, read here. Address: Sestiere Castello 1788, Venezia; www.facebook.com/Nevodi
Like the Venetians do. Florian. Visiting Cafe Florian, the oldest cafe in the world (1720) in San Marco, is that one thing. It is overpriced, but boy, it is so charming. Read the whole story here. Address: Piazza San Marco, 57, Venezia; www.caffeflorian.com/en
Chic. Cocktails at Aman Venice. We dressed up (I had my high heels with me just for that) and went there. The bell rang, the door opened, and we were in – up on the 2nd floor to enjoy a long-awaited moment. See and read more here. Address: Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte, 1364, Palazzo Papadopoli, Sestiere San Polo, Venezia; www.aman.com/resorts/aman-venice
Hugo at the greenhouse. Just a few steps away from Arsenal and beautiful Largo Marina d'Italia park, there is a greenhouse that local ladies visit to buy flower pots, but the younger set (not only) go there for a cup of tea, coffee or the amazing Hugo cocktail. For more pictures heat here. Address: Viale Giuseppe Garibaldi, 1254, Venezia; www.serradeigiardini.org/en
Pasticceria Italo Didovich. A bit off the tourist track and I believe my favorite – their sfogliatina with cream is to die for and the “doughnut” with cream is meant to finish alone. Address: Sestiere Castello, 5909, Venezia
Tea time in the garden. Fujiyama Tea Room Beatrice is not a place you associate with Venice, but still – from time to time you just need that good old cup of tea. Adress: Calle Lunga de San Barnaba, 2727/A, Dorsoduro, Venezia; www.fujiyama.life/tea-room
For coffee lovers. While locals and so many visitors to Venice drink whatever coffee is served, coffee lovers come to Torrefazione Marchi. Address: Sestiere Cannaregio, 1337, Venezia; www.torrefazionemarchi.it/en
Cantine Vecia Carbonera. This is the place, when you are looking for some local wine and cicheti venexiani. Address: Canneregio 2329, 30100 Venezia. www.facebook.com/pages/Cantina-Vecia-Carbonera
Gelato must. Gelato di Natura. That triple layer hazelnut, milk, and pistachio gelato is still in my dreams. Address: Cannaregio 4454, Campo Santi Apostoli, Venezia; www.gelatodinatura.com/en
Natural and simple. Adriatico Mar. Of my favorite spots for great wine and simple food or just a nibble. Address: Calle Crosera, 3771. www.facebook.com/MalvasiaAdriaticoMar
Traditional sweets. Rizzardini is a pastry shop, one of the four I loved in Venice, that has been there since 1742. Read more here. Address: Sestiere San Polo, 1415, Campiello dei Meloni, Venezia; www.facebook.com/pages/Pasticceria-Rizzardini
Without sugar and flour. Frulala. Made with fruit, sometimes coconut milk, and other healthy stuff, their smoothies are fresh and healthy. Address: Cannaregio 5620, Venezia; www.frulala.com
Hostle with a soul. We_Crociferi. If not staying there, at least go for a cup of coffee, tea, or a cocktail and have it in the huge garden or in the terrace on water. Address: Campo dei Gesuiti, 4878, Cannaregio, Venezia; www.we-gastameco.com/en/we_crociferi
Most famous fugassa. They say this place makes the best Venetian fugassa. I did not try others, but I love theirs. So soft, so airy, so moist, so perfect. They are what I always think about how great Italian sweet breads should be. It’s all there. Locals run in for a coffee that they finish right there at the counter, together with some focaccia or a cookie. By the way – the bussolà buranello cookie is more than good and so is the … everything else. Address: Calle Lunga de San Barnaba, 2867A, Venezia; www.dalnonocolussi.com
Pistacio bread and sfoglia at its best. It was the first pasticceria I went into in Venice. It was the last place I visited before leaving – I bought pistachio bread again. Address: Strada Nova 3843A, Sestiere Cannaregio, Venezia; www.facebook.com/PasticceriaPitteri
Venetian pride – the mask. No visit to Venice is complete if you don't visit a proper mask shop, and by proper, I mean one where they are beautiful and handmade. Read the whole story here. Adrese: Castello 4964, Venezia; www.cadelsolmascherevenezia.com/en/masks
Libreria Acqua Alta. The most famous book shop/library in Venice. Everyone goes there to see the famous chair that has been flooded whenever there is aqua alta (water rising) in Venice. Address: Calle Longa S. Maria Formosa, 5176/b, Castello, Venezia.
Good to know and try:
Zaeti – Venetian pride, something that every grandmother in Venice has a recipe for. Made from corn and raisins and shaped like diamond, it is small or big, but if it is good, it is very tasty.
Cihcheti – there are cihcheti bars and there are places that serve just cihcheti. This is part of Venetian culture – to go out for a drink and cihcheti . It can be a whole meal or starter, but it always happens, since Venetians cannot do it differently.
Working hours – as in all of Italy, they like to live by their own time. Some places stick to regular working hours, but some just work as the wind blows. But one thing common to all local places that are not tourist-driven – they will have a 2 h lunch break.
Take home – zaeti and Bussolà cookies, cookbook Venice& Food (by Arsenal) and torta di mandorle.
Instead of the gondola, try a 10 minute trip by helicopter. All you need to do is reserve the flight with heliair.com, go to Lido, and fly. An amazing experience for minimum 2, maximum 4 for 130 euros.
My warmest and biggest thanks to my dear friend Sintija, who lived in Venice for some time and was so sweet to show us the local pearls.
Story and pictures: Signe Meirane
Camera: Sony Alpha 7s
