Yosemite
Eight years, one movie (The Dawn Wall) and a thousand miles later, we finally approached Yosemite. It was while a part of Sonoma was under evacuation, fires, and a no lights regime, so as we approached, we hoped that someone would be at our camp.
It was hours from San Francisco when we started to look for at least something that resembled mountains. There were some on the right, but we knew we had to go to the left. The traffic was getting more complicated, the land flatter, and landscape more boring. The air smelt of factory farms, cow dung, and everything you don't want to smell as you drive to the most magical place on the earth. Slowly, trees started to appear, groves of trees and trees and more trees. Only after noticing these plantations, I realized these are the almond and pistachio trees that deliver nuts all around the world to make gallons and gallons of almond milk, causing immense distress to the world of bees.
The Tule fog (the scary one) was settling, making everything look dirty, dark, and dusty. The sky was turning from blue to red, and the fog made it more dramatic. I did not know that it was the fog at the time, so I thought we were very close to the fires, making me a bit more scared. Slowly the flatland turned into hills and then into mountains, and suddenly, 10 minutes later, we were over the “barrier” where it started to feel like Yosemite was somewhere close by. Wherever we looked, the sky was burning orange-red, and the trees looked like they had burned some time before. The houses were dark, with no electricity, and it made me worry that Yosemite might be under the state electricity shutdown, too. My heart lifted in Mariposa that was all shiny and bright with lights in every window, the same as our destination for two nights – Autocamp.
We discovered Autocamp, the highlight of our trip, in an Internet accident. Forty minutes from Yosemite, it is the most magical place to stay. Instead of a lodge, we booked an Airstream. An original one, refurbished, redesigned inside, rebuilt to be perfect. Upon our arrival, we took a cart to take our things to the Airstream, later returning to the main hall for a welcoming glass of Chardonnay, IPA, and apple juice for the ladies. We sat by the fireplace, enjoying our drinks, while others played board games and enjoyed each other's company. The Airstream, designed to have it all – a large bed, TV, sofa, bathroom, and kitchen – did have it all. While some made their dinner in the microwave hidden in the cupboard, we, like many, prepared our meal outside on the fire. The girls unpacked their things while we set the table, lit the fire, and cooked our organic chicken and apple sausages. I served this with salad, sourdough bread, and a glass of wine. Wearing three sweaters and a coat, we sat outside, trying to pretend we were warm, yet enjoying every minute of it. After a movie in bed, watching The Dawn Wall again, we slept soundly, although the electric heater liked to make noises louder than one would expect.
The morning came with the brightest sun, freshly brewed coffee, and freshly squeezed orange juice and muffins in the main house (included in the price). While I cooked breakfast, eggs and bacon on the fire, the girls could not resist the most magical swim in the pool outside. With steam rising in the cold air and the sun shimmering on the water, it was a magical way to start the day, followed by breakfast cooked on the fire and croissants from Tartine Bakery we got the day before.
We got into the car and took our breakfast muffins and water with us to head for Yosemite. A day is not nearly enough to explore its beauty. After a few stops (trying to spot climbers on the white walls – there were many), we took a long hike to the famous Mirror Lake, dry and empty at this time of the year. We stood there looking at the North Dome, monumental in every possible way. Meeting a squirrel on your way is no surprise; the same goes for coyotes looking for scraps of food. And we did. The hours there passed by faster than we thought they would. Every stop we made soaked us in as a bee sucks in honey. The last stop we made was in front of The Dawn Wall. With muffins in our hands, we did not talk. Instead, we looked at the wall and those tiny dots that were actually people somewhere high up. Once you find them, you stay with that point or they disappear the next time you look for them again – that's how small they are.
The evening came faster than we’d expect. The sun started to go down as I whisked up our guacamole. The girls took another swim while I, with a glass of French (I'm so sorry) wine in one hand, grilled local corn and more sausages on the fire. Wrapped in blankets, we enjoyed the meal together in the middle of the mountains, almost next to Yosemite, in the most magical place I could imagine. The girls ran to the main house (to “steal” more Halloween candy) while we just sat there. Just like that. Later we gathered around the central fireplace and grilled marshmallows to make Smores. Another day was over. Full of so much emotion that would last a lifetime. The morning came with sadness about having to leave. We squeezed our orange juice in the main house, took our scones and muffins, I made eggs on the fire outside, and we departed, planning another trip in few years (if you book 2-3 years in advance the price is three times cheaper). We stopped at the Sugar Pine Bakery in Mariposa for a last taste of the region, bought cookies, and headed to Sonoma.
It was only due to the movie The Dawn Wall that we watched on a summer evening in 2019 that we knew that we would go. And we did. We drove 5 hours one way and six back (traffic) to have the most unforgettable memories.
PS. You can buy some food on your way to Yosemite in cities you pass through. We stopped at the Whole Foods Market in Dublin to get lettuce, sausages, yogurt for breakfast, and fruit. What you have to know is that they have lots of great food in the shop at Autocamp - organic pancake mix, maple syrup, chips, sausages, cheese, great drinks, ice cream, oats, and everything you need.
If you do not stop at Whole Foods, there is a beautiful local shop in Mariposa - High Country Health Food Shop where you can get groceries and also eat healthy meals. There is an unhealthier option. For meals - Sugar Pine, a place where they bake beautiful cookies and all the scones and muffins you get at Autocamp every morning. And then there is a coffee place called Pony Expresso Coffee House & Roasters. Espresso there is killer strong; the cappuccino is lighter. Locals come here for their breakfast porridge and other food.
You can see many more pictures from these days here
Story and pictures: Signe Meirane
Camera: Sony Alpha 7s
In partnership with Turkish Airlines Latvia
