Paris. Montmartre
“That was when I realized that Paris is different, falling in love even more”
Almost ten years ago, my husband and I walked dreamily, hand in hand, strolling through the streets of Paris, feeling like we were living in paradise, when a friend – a Parisian – took as for a day in Montmartre by "accidentally" missing a stop and making us get out at Barbès – Rochechouart, pretending to go the wrong direction, wanting to show us the “scary” side of the city. We walked as I squeezed my bag under my arm as if I had gold in it, when all I had was a wallet with cards and no cash. Still, it felt that “they” might take that away. That was when I realized that Paris is different, falling in love even more.
He did not scare us, but he showed us the city as it is, and from that day on, we have always returned. You can take it from Boulevard Hausmann, but early in the morning, I took a metro to Parc des Buttes-Chaumont to walk to Montmartrelater. I walked in the park, remembering my friends' stories of being in love and reading to each other, sleeping on the lawn right there in the park. I came from the upper side, which revealed a stunning view over the park with a cliff and pond in the middle while I heard a waterfall somewhere. Searching for it, I went over the bridge and around the lake, admiring the blooming magnolias and nature. Built artificially at the beginning of the 20thcentury, Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, a genuine pearl in Paris, is just 15 minutes from the center. With its small vine-covered houses, locals, and circling streets, it has a more relaxed pace. I could not imagine a more romantic walk, beautiful run, and or beautiful picnic spot.
Walking towards Monmartre, I visited La Fromagerie Goncourt - a new generation cheese shop where every cheese has its story, roots, and the best taste possible. It is the shop to stop and buy unique and small-farm cheeses (they wrapped my eight pieces of cheese, two sausages, and the owner’s father’s garden hazelnuts for my trip back home). I walked down the controversial Goncourtand and started my way up Rue des Martyrs, one of the most charming food streets in Paris. I exchanged my coffee for freshly squeezed pear, apple, and ginger juice at the Pioneer Coffee Shop in this part of the city – KB Coffee Roasters. I sat outside, put on my new sunglasses I bought on Rue Condorcet, which is filled with small local shops, and watched the kids enjoying a merry-go-round. It was a November Friday, and the sun was heating Paris to 12 degrees. You could feel that the weekend was almost there as the cheese shops were full, rotisserie chicken and wine was packed, and pastries wrapped. I walked up the hill taking myself through streets I did not know. I passed by my favorite poultry restaurant Le Coque Rico (homemade duck pâté, roasted organic chicken, French fries, all organic duck and chicken menu) to finally see Rue de Labreuvoir – the one famous for its Alsace style and pink houses. I knew I had to meet Sacré-Cœur and and go down Rue Saint-Elethere to take a look at the Eifel Tower on the other side of the city. I always go there, and it always makes me happy.
Although there are many ways to get there, I always take the same Rue des Martyrs to buy some cake at Rose Bakery (hoping one day to get there for brunch), try the tea at Palais des Thes, and buy cake and croissants at Sebastien Gaudard Patisserie. I entered the local shop Berrie and Au Bout du Champ where where they sell only seasonal and only small producer local foods. The lights were on and the bags were filled with food.
Places to stop
La Fromagerie Goncourt – off the beaten path, this cheese shop takes cheese to another level. Local, small farm, many times organic and a very personal selection of cheese. They also sell dairy, sausages, and nuts — my favorite for now in Paris.
Marlette – charming everyday cafe. Great coffee, local juices, baked goods, and simple breakfast and lunch dishes. Locals go there for prepared baking mixes that are all organic. 51 rue des Martyrs
Buvette – French American restaurant serving most of the French classics, like coque au vin, beef bourguignon, crepes, and more, along with fantastic scones served with jam and cheese (my favorite) and waffles and a menu that changes according to the time of day.
KB Coffee Roasters – one of the best coffee places on this side of the city, serving not only perfect coffee but many variations of fresh juices and simple foods.
Sebastien Gaudard Patisserie – their window displays are beautiful and the pastries, viennoiseries, and chocolates even more so.
Palais des Thes
La Chambre aux Confitures
Rose Bakery– British inspired shop and restaurant where locals go for brunches or for pound cake and bakes and salads to take away.
Le Coque Rico – a must restaurant to visit if you love organic poultry. A glass of champagne and a half of a roasted chicken and fries is more than enough to make people happy.
From a trip in year 2020
