Lyon. THE restaurant list

I am sitting in my room. It is +30 degrees outside, I have just finished my coffee and I am listening to the silent buzz of July. There are only a few cars passing by and only a few people chatting and walking along the street. And I can hardly hear the kids’ laughter or cries. It happens so that in July most residents of the 6th arrondissement in Lyon have fled the city to stay in their houses by the sea or in the mountains, only to return in September.

However, the pizzeria, which is opposite our house, is full as always, and my feeling of loneliness is suddenly gone as with open windows, hearing the people eating and talking down there, it feels almost like I am in the restaurant. That place is one of those rare ones we have fallen in love with when we think of eating outside or bringing a pizza to our table. There are a few more and this story will be about those special places.

I must admit, this list should have been longer, much longer, especially for someone who has been visiting the city for eight years and then living here for over one and a half. Yet, it is much shorter than I was expecting. And there are certain reasons for that. First, the whole of last year I was working on the book and there was never a day at our house, for almost 365 days, when we did not have an abundance of food available. And, when that was not happening, to be sure that we get what we love and to meet the people we cherish, we went to the same places again and again. So, keeping that in mind, you can be sure that although too short, it is a very well-thought-out list and at least there are some places, and I give you my promise that once you visit those places, you will be trapped in the same trap as us, wishing to return there again and again.

Café Terroir

Very local, typical Lyonnais food – tartar with French fries, lentils with sausage, snails, eggs with Beaufort cheese, whole baked chicken (serves 2-4, depending on the eaters’ appetites) with seasonal sauces, steak, pâté, and so much more. It is always packed, always reserved, and always excellent.

Breizh

Serving simple Brittany galettes and crêpes, they do not forget to surprise you with plates extra more special. The variety is so generous that it is hard to choose, with a good point that it will be good no matter what you choose. And do take their famous cider or buckwheat tea if aiming for something hot. Plus, they are one of those rare places where a meal is served all day (a rare treasure in France).

Bel Ami

Although not French cuisine inspired, I need to mention this exceptional and charming tapas restaurant/bar Bel Ami. Simple food for sharing that is not only exceptional but also sublime. Hummus, sausages, octopus, and seasonal goods are so perfectly simple that you wish for nothing but that. And with their local wine selection, it is a dream come true.

Madamann at Halles de la Martinière

Made with organic and local produce, the crêpes and galettes here are amazing. Do not be confused, they are not filled with surprises or sensations you have never had. No. They are simply good and extremely tasty and perfect for a Saturday or Sunday brunch.

Le Troquet

The place where to look for local, seasonal, mainly organically sourced produce that is turned into a simple yet always surprisingly perfect meal. The menu changes often, yet some well-beloved dishes on the menu never disappear, and thank God for that. Plates, served with biodynamic and organic wines, are meant to be for sharing, as is the always lively atmosphere.

Chez Pimmouse

Located by the river Saône, this small and very charming restaurant is another beautiful expression of what this region has to offer in partnership with a great chef and his team. Light, and very romantic, this restaurant is the one for special occasions and moments that you will remember longer than maybe in other places.

Le Bistrot du Potager Stalingrad

So close to our home and very much away from the centre, this place is where the locals gather for their weekly meals when they wish for something local, seasonal, and exceptionally prepared, yet for a simple gathering, family meal, or meeting with friends. Having unpretentious interior, this place, on the border of the 6th arrondissement and Villeurbanne, is one of our favourite places to lunch or dine at. It would be if we were having meals out very much. With emphasis on grilled meat, which does taste incredibly great here, there are so many more dishes on the menu, and every single one of them is simply amazing.

Le Bistrot Gerland

This place is much more elaborate than Le Bistrot du Potager Stalingrad, yet it still keeps it simple and true to what a seasonal, local, and well-prepared dish is. With more elegant plates, this restaurant attracts customers with its more modern and lighter interior and dishes that have a finesse to them. Yet, the idea is the same as in all of their places, i.e. local, seasonal, made with respect and love.

Casareccio

Our little local pizzeria we enjoy visiting more than often (mostly to take home). So, if and when you are in Lyon, remember this address. It’s easily accessible on foot (like everything in the center) and so worth a visit. Sourdough pizza, simple yet very delicious toppings, and always top quality. 

Leptine.

A place that offers one of the most exciting food experiences Lyon has to offer. It is more about the blend of cultures (French and Asian) and knowledge of both. Be prepared to choose from an exciting menu, wishing to have more place for food. Yes, Morfal is a pure treasure on the border of the 1st and 2nd arrondissements, which has to be booked and enjoyed thoroughly.

Daniel et Denise

With a list of four restaurants in Lyon, Daniel et Denise is what the French like to call L’Institution (something very permanent). Although the one in the old town, by all means, is a good place, there are two that are more authentic and local, one in La Croix-Rousse and one in the 3rd arrondissement. One of the dishes to start with is highly praised and awarded pâté en croûte (champion du monde 2009) and then the choice is all yours. Plates here are generous and true to what Lyonnaise cuisine is (quite full-bodied). One of the most traditional experiences to discover what Lyonnais cuisine is all about.

Junk

No matter how fond one can be of French and Lyonnais cuisine, there are days and moments when a good burger is all we need. There are not too many places in Lyon serving good smash burgers, yet there is one where to indulge in a simply good-made smash burger or one of the best crispy chicken pieces there are. Yes, the fries are also beautiful, as is the place itself.

Le Bistrot d’Abel

Here, the quite heavy Lyonnaise cuisine has been turned into a much lighter version without losing the taste of what it should be. The best and my preferred salad, Lyonnaise, is here, as is the most succulent veal liver served with a sauce and purée. For meat lovers, pâté en croûte is something to indulge in, as is steak and chicken. And yes, do leave some place for the dessert, as every single one of them is pure perfection times two.